Silks Restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, San Francisco

Silks Restaurant’s Beautiful and Elegant Interior

Silks Restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel surprised us. It was not the beautifully appointed dining room with polished wood panels, dramatic flower arrangements and subdued lighting. Nor was it the gracious, elegant service that has always distinguished the Mandarin Hotel Group from others. The surprise was Silk’s food–some of the most flavorful and original we have tasted. Hidden behind simple, straightforward menu descriptions was a subtle and sensu ous culinary experience.

We started our culinary evening with "Torchon of Sonoma Foie Gras — Bing Cherry compote, Black Vinegar Gastrique" ($18). Sweet Bing cherry compote complimented the silky-smooth, creamy and rich foie gras. The black vinegar gastri que reduction was a pungent contrast to the foie gras. So on the same plate the Chef provided point and counter-point with complementary and contrasting flavors. The rich, medium bodied Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label, n/v ($16) went well with the foi e gras.

Another appetizer selection was the "Smoked Sturgeon and New Potato Salad — Caviar, Quail Egg, Dill Cream" ($18). The Chef elevated this dish to new heights by serving it first with excellent caviar, then with smooth dill cream. T he new potato salad provided a refreshing palette cleanser between bites. The potatoes were gently cooked and crunchy. They were topped with a cooked quail egg for flash and richness. This is a chef that provides the diner with a complex and varied taste e xperience–all happening on the same plate!

The next appetizer was "Seared Dayboat Scallops — Vanilla Beurre Blanc, Cardamom Carrot Syrup, Watercress Salad" ($14). Again, a symphony of surprising flavors happened on the same plate. The beautifully flavored vanilla sauce was a brilliant compliment and brought out the sweetness of the scallops. The cardamom carrot syrup was an exotic complement to the dish, and the mildly bitter water crest salad revived and refreshed the palette.

Our next course was the "Tea-smoked Duck Breast — Endive and Bulghur Salad, Dried Cherry Vinaigrette" ($16). Here, in this lovely "East Meets West" dish, tender Asian-style duck breast was laid gently over a creative and exiting salad of contrasting and complementary flavors and textures: crunchy, slightly bitter endives, nutty, crunchy walnuts, then smooth, tender cooked Bulghur kernels. This delicately tossed mixture had the sweet/sour flavor of the dried cherry vinaig rette–a winner!

Chef de Cuisine Chris Floyd performed culinary magic.

Throughout the meal we were impressed that the Chef was providing a truly enhanced culinary experience with every dish. How can he keep on surprising us with every course? Take the "Dayboat Scallops,"–which are frequently served in a straightforward manner, with the Silk’s preparation, on the other hand, the Chef made the dish memorable by his understanding of the nature of finely prepared scallops. They are delicately sweet. His preparation of the vanilla buerre blan c sauce was clearly designed to bring out that sweetness.

And who is this magician of flavors? We spoke with the Chef, Christopher Floyd, Chef de Cuisine, and asked him about his food and his background. We found out that Chef Floyd has vast and varied experience with food. In the U.S. he worked in the kitchens of Michael Mina of Aqua fame, with Alain Rondelli, a well-known San Francisco chef, and also with Dante Bocuzzi, the former Chef de Cuisine at Silks. He has also worked in some of the finest restaurants in France. With all this excellent experience and also formal training at the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N.Y., Chef Floyd has been able to craft his culinary style to a truly innovative and original one. We certainly experienced his magic throughout our meal.< /P>

For an entree we had the "Sautéed Escolar—Smoked Fennel Ravioli, Saffron Broth" ($27). What distinguished this dish was the delicate saffron broth, which was in balance and did not over power the flavors of the Escolar. We had a glass of Gloria Ferrer, Pinot Noir, Carneros 1999 ($10), whose light-body and cherry/strawberry flavors served as a nice contrast to the dish.

We also tasted the "Grilled Main Lobster — White Creamed Corn, Niman Ranch Ham, Chanterelles, Manila Clams" ($39). Again Chef Floyd surprised us by drawing from the "New England Lobster and Clam Bake" and the "Ameri can Bar-B-Q" traditions. Chef Floyd has taken a fresh Maine lobster out of the shell and placed it on creamed corn, in a delicate tomato sauce with subtle Niman Ranch Ham flavor, reminiscent of traditional American Bar-B-Q sauce. He includes the Man ila baked clams for effect and tops off the dish with dark green spinach leaves and baby yellow corn for flare and color. What an exciting and innovative approach to presenting a lobster dish! A glass of Ferrari-Carrano, Merlot, Sonoma County, 1997 ($10), had a hint of cedar and spice along with intense black cherry and plum flavors. This wine was an interesting compliment to the dish.

.

Silks Restaurant’s Grilled Maine Lobster" is exciting and innovative.

We looked over at the next table and saw a couple eating an impressive looking rack of lamb (described as "Pine Nut Crusted Rack of Lamb — Eggplant Caviar, Spinach, Tomato Comfit" $31-) and also a large and succulent lookin g beef dish (described as "Seared Beef Tenderloin and Potato Fondant — Blue Cheese Stuffed Tomatoes, Caramelized Onion Balsamic Reduction" $34.) The couple, who were from Texas, told us the two dishes were top notch. They said they always stay at the Mandarin Oriental while in San Francisco. I asked them why they chose the Mandarin Oriental, given the fine selection of luxury hotels in San Francisco. They said it was the total package that impressed them–an excell ent room with a breathtaking view, superb and personalized service, and of course, Silks Restaurant, where they always had a lovely dining experience. "Where else," they asked, "can you get this level of quality and personal service all rolled into one?"

As we were contemplating their comments we moved on to dessert. For dessert chocolate lovers will be happy to know that Silks offers a number of choices including "Valrhona Chocolate Mouse Cake — Strawberry Mint Sorbet, Cocoa Nib Tu ile" ($9) and "Warm Chocolate Soufflé Cake — Amarene Cherry Compote, Pistachio Ice Cream" ($9), which was redolent with oozing warm chocolate. Our particular favorite dessert was the "Flambé Banana  1; Custard Roll, Coconut Sorbet" ($9). This dish brought "Bananas Foster" to a higher level. Really three desserts in one, this dish was served on beautiful silver tray with flames coming out of the delicious, not overly sweet banana p reparation. The custard roll was crunchy and creamy and the coconut sorbet served as a food palette cleanser. We had Late Harvest Viognier, Cambria, Santa Maria Valley, 1997 ($8), and made a toast to Pastry Chef Clara Yun for her wonderful c reations.

At Silks Restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental the dining experience was indeed special and full of surprises. Chef Floyd crafted each dish with great intelligence and flare and with an emphasis first and foremost on flavor. Ordering a la c arte off Silks Menu could be pricey. The best way to experience Silks is by ordering from the superbly value priced "Tasting Menus" as follows: Four Courses - $59; Five Courses - $72; Six Courses - $85.

Tucked away on the 2^nd floor of the Mandarin Oriental, San Francisco in the Financial District, Silks rates with the top European Michelin Restaurants in terms of food, style, and service. Silks is a "must try" and among the finest restaurants in the San Francisco culinary scene.

Silks at the Mandarin Oriental, San Francisco

222 Sansome Street,

San Francisco, CA 94104

(415) 986-2020

Food*****

Service*****
Decor****

Value***

Tasting

Menu*****

Scale

***** Outstanding
**** Excellent
*** Good

**       Fair
*         Poor 

Chef de Cuisine: Christopher Floyd

Pastry Chef: Clara Yun

Executive Chef: Selu Garcia

Sous Chef: William James