A New Take on a New Orleans Classic

By Michael Reiss, Editor-Food and Wine Access

New Orleans locals told us that Galatoire’s Restaurant was an institution. Don’t mind the lines outside or the boisterous atmosphere inside—this place was worth it. We went to Galatoire’s with these thoughts in mind, also expecting an “old guard” place with tradition-bound food. We went with some trepidation, particularly in light of the “new” glamour chefs of New Orleans—Emile Lagasse, Susan Spicer, Ann Kearney—to name a few. These media-savvy celebrity chefs have a “lighter, more modern” style.

Instead of disappointment we found Galatoire’s food both a surprise and a delight. The “Galatoire’s Goute” was a plentiful three item sampler-appetizer ($12.50), which was large enough to split. Its “Crabmeat Maison” consisted of perfectly cooked hunks of tender, lightly dressed crabmeat, which was mixed with crunchy lettuce and was served room temperature for heightened flavor. Next were juicy crawfish mixed in a light spicy red tomato-based sauce. Finally the “Shrimp Remoulade” was equally wonderful in its horseradish cocktail sauce. We found that this appetizer was delicious when eaten with the warm crunchy, thick-crusted white bread served at the table wrapped in a napkin.

So we were off to a good start. The amazing thing about the New Orleans eating scene is that, even at the appetizer phase of the meal, we have had a rich and varied eating experience. But we thought this first course must be a fluke—the food at Galatoire’s was suppose to be heavy. We were surprised again with the main course. This was fresh-caught grilled Pompano($18.50) served with sautéed crabmeat and crawfish meuniere. The fish flaked apart and was not overcooked—succulent, light and delicious!

What was the greatest surprise of the evening was not the appetizer or the main course, rather it was the freewheeling atmosphere of the place. Our waiter, who later told us he fled Hungry in the 60's only to come to New Orleans, clanged on a glass and announced to the entire restaurant, "These fine folks here (pointing) are getting married. Let's give'em a round of applause!” Ecstatic handclasps broke out from around the room and smiles were everywhere. “Champagne for all!” the waiter said enthusiastically, as he smiled.

Partially because the tables were so close to one another and partially because of the raucous atmosphere of the place, before the evening ended we got to know two sets of people around us—one delightful couple that flew in from Atlanta, especially to celebrate a birthday at Galatoire’s, and then another couple from Galveston, Texas, who said, “We come here because the food’s good and the wine list has many bargains on it.”

We ended our meal in the French tradition by eating the salad after the entrée. We had Cajun beef-stake tomatoes with romaine lettuce topped with tangy Dijon mustard-based vinaigrette($4.25).

Although we split items, we were so stuffed at the end of the meal that we did not have room for desert. Nevertheless we looked over the extensive menu (which is almost encyclopedic with over 100 items on it.) The menu included delicious-sounding vegetables—sautéed portabello mushrooms,($6.50) broiled eggplant($3.50); eggs and omelets including a crabmeat omelet($13.00). Then there was poultry—chicken Creole($12.50), followed by meats--veal chop($21.00) with a choice of eight different sauces. There was shellfish. This section of the menu included bouillabaisse($20.00), shrimp($15.00), and oysters($15.00). The salads included asparagus salad($4.75), stuff tomatoes with scrimps($10.00). The soups included Creole gumbo($4.75) and turtle soup(4.50). And finally the deserts were extensive, including crepes Suzette($5.00) and crepe brulot($5.00)—a flamed liqueur-coffee preparation that flamed many times around us throughout the evening.

Just before leaving we looked around at Galatoire’s. The entire downstairs had a major renovation that has kept the spirit of the place in tact. Upstairs we were shown a newly completed spacious, light, airy “salle a manger," really a beautiful room.

We reflected on the experience of the evening, and we realized why this classic restaurant, Galatoire’s, has stood the test of time. As our dinner guest said, “the food was good.” It was plentiful and reasonably priced. And the place was professional, yet fun. Good night Galatoire’s,
until we eat again.

Galatoire’s Restaurant
209 Bourbon St.,
New Orleans, LA 70130
(504) 525-2021

Food ****1/2
Service ***1/2
Atmosphere ****
Value Scale *****

* 1 Poor
** 2 Average
*** 3 Good
**** 4 Excellent
***** 5 Superb

Galatoire's Recipe

Crabmeat Maison

One pound jumbo lump crabmeat
One-half cup homemade mayonaisse
Three tablespoons French dressing (olive oil, vinegar, creole mustare, and salt/pepper
to taste.)
One-half teaspoon chopped parsley