ANZU Restaurant at the Hotel Nikko, San Francisco is more
than an East-meets-West restaurant. It is a unique and original experience.
Upon entering the Hotel Nikko warm earth tone colors grace the hotel's
interior spaces within the marble interior, along with flashes of dramatic
modern art on the walls and in sculpture. ANZU Restaurant, tucked
away on the 2nd floor, boasts top quality sushi, offers excellent California-French
cuisine with Asian touches, and also features superb beef. In essence,
ANZU
Restaurant is three restaurants in one: an upscale sushi bar, a refined
California-French dinning room, and an inspired boutique steak house.
How is it possible that these three diverse culinary influences could
work together in harmony and provide, in total, a memorable dining experience?
The key to all this success is Philippe Striffeler, the Swiss-trained
Executive
Chef and Director of Food and Beverages. He coordinates the gracious
wait staff and the knowledgeable cooking staff with Swiss precision and
Japanese team consciousness. Thus a diner can start a meal with subtle
Japanese sushi, proceed to California-French inspired foie gras
for a hot appetizer, and then have savory steak and seafood--all in the
same meal!
We started our culinary adventure at ANZU with sushi prepared
by Master Sushi Chef Kzuhito Takahashi. We were interested
to learn that Chef Takahashi is one of eleven Certificated
Master Sushi Chefs in the United States who has undergone extensive training
in the selection, preparation, and presentation of sushi. Chef Takahashi
presented us "upscale gourmet" sushi. Instead of the usual maguro
tuna we got a subtle tuna variety, bonito sushi. Replacing the traditional
hamachi
yellowtail we received king fish, a delicious smooth fish. Rather than
hirame
halibut we tasted incredibly fresh snapper. We asked for anago
eel and were surprised to receive the anago eel wrapped around
melt-in-your-mouth California Roll made with perfectly blended sushi rice,
avocado and crab.
What distinguishes Chef Takahashi's sushi at ANZU Restaurant
from
the "'run-of-the mill" variety of sushi was first, the outstanding freshness
of the fish; second, the variety of subtle variations on the classic sushi
choices, i.e., Chef Takahashi choose bonito instead of maguro
tuna; and third, the surprise factor of the sushi--we did not expect
anago
eel to be wrapped in California Roll with such an excellent savory result.
Indeed the sushi at ANZU was some of the finest in the city, the
only peer being the high quality and higher priced Kyoya Restaurant at
the Palace Hotel.
Master Sushi Chef Takahashi presents upscale gourmet sushi. Photo by M. Reiss |
Also available on the sushi menu was the Sashimi Platter, 12 Piece
Order ($22) and the grandiose Combination Sushi and Sashimi Platter
($34). The maxim to "put yourself in the hands of the sushi chef" was not
a bad idea here at ANZU, as this Master Sushi Chef knew what
"off the menu" sushi would provide us with the best, the freshest,
and the most subtle taste surprise.
Now, just what does one drink with superb sushi? Raphael Piveteau,
our Sommelier, had the answers. Beer? Premium Sake ? Perhaps, but this
time Raphael suggested the classic Moet and Chandon White
Star NV ($13.50 a glass). This medium dry French Champagne matched
well with the rich and subtle sushi and cut through the pungent homemade
green wasabi and soy sauce.
Our next course was the Half Maine Lobster with Blood Orange and
Mizuna Salad with Vinaigrette ($14.95). This was a half Maine lobster
deshelled and served in tact, slightly warm, on a bed of lightly pungent
and sweet greens with fruity blood orange wedges on the side. This value
priced lobster dish was done to perfection and the sweet/pungent elements
acted as a good contrast to the lobster. We drank Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay
"Russian River" 1999 ($12). Its rich flavors and clean finish paired
well with the lobster.
We went on to the Sonoma Valley Foie Gras ($15.50). This was
a generous piece of perfectly-seared foie gras served piled
high, Charlie-Trotter style, above a crispy laced potato galette. Included
was a balsamic reduction and lightly dressed greens--a delicious dish!
We drank the well balanced La Crema Pinot Noir "Sonoma Coast" 1999
($9.00) whose fruit went well with the rich foie gras.
Our guide throughout the meal was Sommelier Raphael Piveteau,
who said he had studied and lived in France. Raphael showed
good knowledge of food and wine pairings. ANZU's Wine List
has many well chosen and affordable wines ranging form a well priced $26.00
Sonoma Seghesio Zinfandel to prestigious Opus One 1996 at $250. There was
also a good selection of wines by the glass and an attractive and fun sushi
bar scene at ANZU.
|
|
Chef de Cuisine Mark Petit John gave excellence.
Photo by M. Reiss.
|
For the entree we had the Petite Filet Mignon-6 oz. ($22.00),
which was some of the tenderest and most favorable beef we have eaten.
The
Chef de Cuisine, Mark Petit John, explained that the beef was Allen
Brothers Premium Steak "lightly basted in special marinade." All
beef dishes come with a choice of seven special sauces including: hoisin
barbecue; Chinese mustard demi; maitre d'hotel butter; port wine reduction;
classic béarnaise; tamarind-ginger sauce; five peppercorn
marsala, which are unnecessary, but fun, given the quality of beef served.
We had the assertive Penfold Cabernet Shraz Australian, 1997 ($10)
with the beef.
Chef de Cuisine Mark Petit John did a fine job with the food
preparation and needs to be congratulated for excellence throughout the
meal.
The next course, the "Asian Cioppino" Shrimps, Scallops, Mussels
and Salmon ($23) was served in a lemon grass, tomato and garlic jus.
It was flavorful without being overbearing and included perfectly cooked
fish and seafood. We had a glass of Rosemont Syrah "Balmoral" ($14),
which was smooth silky elegance. This red wine went well with the tomato
based "Asian Cioppino."
Over desert--which included a sensational warm-oozing "molten" Chocolate
Truffle Cake ($6.50) and the delicious Banana Tempura Split with
Almonds Brittle and Honey Caramel Sauce ($6.50), Asian style banana
fritters, we had a chat with Executive Chef and Director of Food and
Beverages, Philippe Striffeler, about ANZU's many dimensions.
He told us that on Sundays there is always a memorable "Champagne Jazz
Sunday Brunch." This particular Sunday the theme was "Brazilian."
We later had a chance to observe the spectacular array of sushi,
dim sum, as well as fish, meat, vegetables and Western style dishes. A
live broadcast with Radio Station KKSF 103.7 FM happens right in
the ANZU dining room--quite exciting!
What makes ANZU Restaurant unique is its ability to combine three
traditions in one and make them come off successfully, namely the Asian--a
la Japanese and sushi, with California-French cuisine, along side
a rich American steak house tradition.
Also, ANZU finds itself inside the top notch luxury Hotel
Nikko with gracious, efficient service at the level of the Ritz Carlton,
Four Seasons, and Starwood's Luxury Collection Palace Hotel. Indeed ANZU
Restaurant at the Hotel Nikko has tremendously exciting and
varied food selections which are particularly well priced. ANZU Restaurant
is an important and unique member of the San Francisco culinary scene.
ANZU Restaurant
at Hotel Nikko San Francisco
222 Mason Street,
San Francisco, Calf. 94102
(415) 394-1111
Philip Striffeler,
Executive Chef and Director of Food & Beverages
Robert Falls,
Food and Beverage Outlets Manager
Food ****1/2
Service ***1/2
Decor ***1/2
Value *****
Scale
***** Outstanding
**** Excellent
*** Good
**
Fair
*
Poor
