seated you are quickly introduced to your wait-staff and within minutes, brought the most irresistible hot and crunchy French baguettes. Off to a good start! A careful look at the menu confirms your expectation that you are in classic French hands with appropriate Louisiana touches.

Start with a glass of French champagne and the "Terrine of Foie Gras" ($14) (served cold). "The Napoleon of Crab" ($12) and the "Gumbo Nouvelle Orlèans" ($6) are two additional appetizers expertly prepared by a French chef with Louisiana flair. Again, the main courses reflect the best of the classic French tradition with the "Fish of the Day" offered "à la Louisiana" ($29) topped with sautéed banana and red bell pepper.

One of the most memorable courses of this meal was the "Cheese Plate" ($7), cheeses from many countries vied for space with plentiful fruits. What was missing was the traditional walnut bread that usually accompanies an "assiette de fromage!" It would have been the perfect partner to the generous portions and interesting variety offered. The best of the desserts was a plate of "Rice Flower Beignets With Ice Cream" ($7).

The wine list, not surprisingly weighted with French wines, lacked breath and depth for a restaurant of this caliber. The "Wines by the Glass" were sparse and of mediocre quality. The maitre`d, Louis Brown, however, had a vast knowledge of the wines offered and transformed a limited wine list into an interesting

exploration of the selections. Talk to Louise before you order your wine! Service was surprisingly informal.

Louis XVI has developed a well-deserved reputation for a special occasion dining venue that harkens back to what we all expect from a good French meal.

Restaurant

Louis Brown