In this world, how many friendships last for 35 years? Nor many, I venture to say. However, when the catalyst of good wine aids this friendship it becomes a lot easier. Such is the case of a group of some 6 to 10 individuals that I've been meeting with nearly every Saturday for lunch at various restaurants since 1964. Everyone brings a bottle or two of wine, sometimes on a catch-as-catch can basis and sometimes with a theme (like all Napa Cabernets or 1990 Bordeaux). The restaurants change over the years; not because we are finicky, but in most instances the restaurants cease operation.

Occasionally a member will have lunch at his house and sometimes for a very specula occasion. This occurred on February 20TH, when the former CEO of the Neutrogena Corporation, Lloyd Cotsen held a feast in his home to celebrate his 70th birthday. Luckily, for all of us Lloyd was born in 1929, which is one of the ultimate great 3 or 4 vintages of the 20th century. For over a decade Lloyd and his son Erick have been amassing numerous 1929's for this event. This was a spare no expense event on Lloyd's part with the lunch prepared by one of this countries greatest chefs, Joachim Splichal, owner of Patina and the Pinot restaurants. The sommelier, was Chris Meeske of Patina, who did an incredible job of opening and decanting the numerous 70 years old wines.

As a special guest, Lloyd flew in from London Clive Coates, holder of a Master of Wine certificate. He is the author of two encyclopedic books on Bordeaux and Burgundy published by the University of California and publisher of one of the two most influential monthly wine-buying guides in the world.

Sixteen very luckily persons were at this lunch, some regular members of the Saturday group and some that attend only occasionally. Those in the wine and liquor industry included; besides your author, Bob Myers co-owner of Wine Warehouse, Steve Wallace of Wally's, Roy Kavin of Greenblats, Bill Shapiro of Vendome, Syd Greenberg former half owner of Spring Mountain Winery and Dan Mark founder of the Wine House in west Los Angeles.

Along with a magnificent six-course lunch, Lloyd served some 22 various wine and spirits, all from 1929. In some instances, the original bottled opened turned out to be "long gone" and Lloyd would have other bottles of the same wine in reserve and ready to open.

Now I feel like doing a bit of name-dropping, for following are the wines listed in the course by course order they were served, along with brief personal observations. The numbers after each wine is how I rated them on a 20-point basis.

To no ones surprise, the '29 Mouton-Rothschild was the best of this flight with still plenty of color and wonderful Cabernet flavors. However, the great surprise among all 20 wines served was the quality of the '29 Greissier-Grand-Poujeaux. The wine from this somewhat unknown and unclassified vineyard was still sound with a great aroma and tastes of cedar and anise. The '29 Calon-Segur was also excellent and only a hairs breath below the Mouton in quality. Alas the d'Issan and Croizet-Bages, though still drinkable, were dull and had long passed their prime. As for the Fourcas-Hostein.the only way to drink this wine is while wearing a black armband.

The Beychevelle still had plenty of fruit and good color. The Rauzan-Gassies, though a bit tired still had good flavors and a lovely smell of violets. The Cos D'Estournel and Trontanoy were both long gone, but having had the '29 Cos several times, I feel the problem was most likely a bad bottle. The Leoville-Poyferre is a legendary wine, and it lived up to its reputation. It was certainly the best of the non-first growths and better then many.

Not a bad bottle in the group. Elegance and lovely lingering berry like flavors came from the Lafite. The Cheval-Blanc was sound with a remarkable dark color and was full-bodied, though not as elegant, as the others served in this course. Haut-Brion's from the 1920's were almost without exception disappointing. This '29 was better then I expected it to be, and though very much alive was the least of this group. Latour 1929 should be drank kneeling, it was a perfect wine loaded with wonderful aromas and flavors and not a sign of age-certainly the winner of the tasting and deserving of a perfect 20 out of 20. The Margaux also showed little or no signs of age and had the flavor nuances associated with the wines of this Chateau. Now comes the mystery--the 1929 Petrus served in Magnum. The label was certainly genuine, as was the cork, but was the wine? No one is certain. Clive Coates and several others didn't think so. Why? Because the wine just looked and tasted far too young for being 70 years old. No one doubted that it was Petrus (or at least another top Pomerol), but it was more like a 1982 then a 1929. So either this was a "miracle" bottle of '29 or a perfect case of wine hanky-panky.

How sad that both these Burgundies were way to old. It took three bottles of the Musigny to fine one that was just barely drinkable. The 1929 Romanee-Conti, once considered one of the finest wines of the century, alas had faded to only a bare hint of its former greatness.

The d'Yquem was as dark as walnut stain but showed little sign of age. It was still wonderfully sweet, accompanied with flavors of pineapple and apricots. As you would expect from a spirit, the Cognac and Armagnac were in excellent shape with layers of smooth balanced flavors. A great way to end a magnificent, once in a life time lunch.

Oh, and by the way, all the guests arrived home safely as Lloyd supplied the Limousine service.